Before graduating from Ohio State in the spring, Abdilahi Hassan made himself a promise: For the first time, he would visit Somalia, his family’s homeland, and when he came back, he would start his own business.
The 26-year-old made good on both vows. Over the summer, he spent a little more than a month in northern Somalia, traveling with his grandparents who emigrated from there. And in November, he opened Hoyo’s Kitchen, a fast-casual eatery on Dublin-Granville Road with food inspired by his mother’s home cooking. (The name itself is a reminder of that—hoyo is the Somali word for mom.)
The menu features recipes and dishes from Hassan’s mother, Hayat Dalmar, and Halimo Alibair, the longtime chef of the strip mall space’s previous tenant, Solay Bistro, a spot popular among fans of authentic Somali cuisine that abruptly shuttered over the summer in 2014.
Hoyo’s looks to fill the void left by Solay—but more than that, Hassan wants his restaurant to be a familial gateway into the African cuisine he grew up with. He hopes Hoyo’s feels authentic for Somali regulars and welcoming for newcomers.
The beauty of Somali food is that something is bound to seem familiar, regardless of how adventurous of an eater you are. Sambusa (one for $1.25 or 10 for $10), a flaky, triangle-shaped pastry filled with a choice of ground beef or lamb with onions and garlic, or potatoes and peas, are reminiscent of Indian samosas. Bajiya (five for $3) are akin to falafel. The Somali version is a deliciously aromatic bean mash that’s fried until just crisp on the outside and moist inside.
Apart from appetizers, there are two main ways to order at Hoyo’s: A Combo Plate ($11 for meat with a drink, $10 for vegetarian) or a Bowl ($8 for meat with a drink, $7 for vegetarian). The plate includes a choice of main and two side dishes, while the bowl comes with choice of main and one side. The vegetarian plate comes with three sides paired with your pick of Somali flat breads (including sour injera and thin, pancake-like canjeero, which is a slightly sweeter version of its Ethiopian counterpart) and a downshift to one side for the bowl.
If you’re an omnivore, don’t pass on a combo plate with goat, the most authentic Somali meat you’ll find on the menu. Chunks of soft goat meat are poached in house seasonings, and then tossed with a traditional Somali sauce (think a light barbecue spiked with berbere). Make sure you get a side of one of the house-made hot sauces, including one with fenugreek and vinegar that’ll add punch to seafood dishes.
Pair goat with Fata Muus, a soft mixture of flatbread, bananas and honey, a sweet mixture made savory with a touch of butter. “If you order rice and goat, you have to eat it with a banana,” Hassan says. “Non-Somalis don’t understand until you try it. It sounds goofy, but trust me.”
Hoyo’s offers a strong list of vegetarian options, something not often found in typically meat-centric Somali restaurants. Don’t pass on the Daal Soup, which is really more of a hearty, aromatic stew.
Admittedly, Hoyo’s is a little confusing when you walk in. Customers have the choice to order at the counter at the back of the restaurant or to grab a table and have a full-service meal. The former is the way Hassam wanted to set up the service, but the latter is customary in Somali culture. So he acquiesced and offers both options.
Hassam says he’s working on picking up the pace of service, but you will have the best experience if you have time to sit back and enjoy the meal and company. It’ll also give you time to explore the coffee shop menu that features a variety of styles of Somali coffees, teas and pastries.
Forthcoming is a breakfast menu—a tribute to Hassan’s favorite meal made by his mom—including a dish that will rival pancakes, and Kiliyo, a dish of sauteed kidneys and vegetables.
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